The original anchoring solution was inadequate, simply because there was no windlass.  This was previously solved by using a too small QCR anchor, which could be weighted by hand (given time), but which could not be trusted in a blow. Not my favorite solution.

Much better, then, to go for:

• A new, concave, anchor:  Rocna, 25 kg. (a bit over-sized?)
• A new bow roller (correspondingly over-sized)
• 50 meters of 10 mm galvanized chain (over-sized, but 8 mm will not take a rope splice)
• A powerful windlass (over-sized to fit anchor and chain)
• Easy anchoring, no worries

Of course, installing all this hardware was no small job. 

The previous anchor well was small, and far forward. It also only drained  to the keel sump. It is just as well that that well is now gone. I buildt a new and larger one, resting on the foundations of the previous upper bunk in the fo'cas'le. The well is closed of by a new bulkhead, which according to plan will also anchor a new inner fore stay (different project). The thick birch plywood bulkhead was solidly tabbed to the hull (I had to cut through the inner lining) with many layers of mat and epoxy. It was then covered by a thin sheet of teak plywood for aesthetics, and given a watertight plastic hatch that is large enough for me to dive into to access various fixtures inside the new well. The hatch of course detracts a bit from the traditional "yachty" look, but is very practical.. The new well has a sump under a grate that holds the chain, and the sump drains through the hull, and not internally. One day I may also install a salt water pressure system to hose down the chain as it comes aboard, thus reducing the range of odors forward of the mast.

A 1500W Anchorlift stainless steel windlass with a rope drum was installed approximately where the old dorade vent was on the foredeck. I cut the vent of at deck level, and cut away the teak decking where the windlass was to be located. I then made a GRP base, slightly proud of the teak deck, for the windlass to stand on before cutting the necessary holes in the deck. The bare GRP deck that was left where the old dorade vent was, and that was not covered by the new windlass installation, got some new strips of teak decking. The old chain hole was dried up, filled with epoxy, and covered by a teak disk. After a couple of months, all the teak decking has the same silver gray colour, and it looks at it was made like that originally. I fixed foot switches for the windlass close to the toe rail on starboard, where I can use them while seeing what is going on with the anchor. I also put a switch in the cockpit, for remote control anchoring. 

I decided to use the starting battery for the windlass, as I will always have my engine running during anchoring maneuvers. I drew 50 mm² tinned wires all the way from the starting battery to the windlass; in total about 30 meters of it. The price per kg. is rather close to that of gold... This installation was protected by a heavy duty circuit breaker at the battery.

The solenoid for the windlass was put in the closet in the fo'cas'le, where it should be well protected from moisture. The windlass engine was duly sprayed with some awful, but recommended, anti-corrosion protection. I also made a rubber padding to protect it from wear from the chain.

The bow roller, also from Anchorlift, fitted snuggly after I cut away the starboard side bow roller from the original stemhead fixture. I did have to grind away a bit on the outside of the roller though, to accommodate the leg for the pulpit. The bow roller was of course bolted down with many though-deck bolts, the holes for which where properly prepared with epoxy casings/seals against the core teak planking. 

After one season of anchoring, I'm very happy with the results of this project. Anchoring is hassle free, the Rocna bites and holds, and we go to sleep at night with decent odds of waking up in the same vicinity.

Comments or questions?